How Was Beef Preseved in the 1800d
Can cans accept, in 200 years, changed the mode the world eats. Merely Victorian disgust over a cheap meat scandal virtually consigned the invention to rejection and failure.
Bryan Donkin left the chimney smoke of the urban center backside equally his carriage headed south through Bermondsey, with the Duke of Kent's alphabetic character of approving in his hand.
The smell of leather and hops receded as he came to the turnpike at Fort Identify Gate, where the gatekeeper's two-storey, brick house marked the cease of the urban sprawl.
Behind him was an unhindered view of St Paul'south Cathedral while in front lay open country and his factory, where for the previous two years he had been trying to notice the best ways to can food.
He could non have known that the touch from the contents of the papers he held would withal be felt across the globe 200 years later on.
Dated xxx June 1813, the day before, the letter explained that four distinguished members of the royal family - including Queen Charlotte, married woman and consort of King George Three - had tasted and enjoyed his canned beef.
Indulging such refined palates was not a affair of vanity for this small-scale Northumbrian engineer.
Instead, it meant he had the highest possible blessing to supply what are thought to be the world's first commercial cans of preserved food to the Admiralty, thereby sparing British seamen thousands of miles away the monotony of salted meat.
According to his diaries, held at Derbyshire Records Part in Matlock, the can-making operation had begun to mobilise on Monday 3 May.
A network of agents was based at fundamental seaports to tout for custom from naval ships and merchants. The patent was finally his, the meat suppliers paid and adverts placed in newspapers, while concern cards were engraved with the name of the company - Donkin, Hall and Gamble.
The mill occupied a rectangular plot of about 300 sq m, dwarfed past Donkin's larger constitute for papermaking machines.
In the weeks that followed, within those four walls, sheets of tin plate were transformed by hand into tin cans filled with beefiness, mutton, carrots, parsnips and soup, destined for every corner of the British Empire.
And then the beginning faltering steps of a multi-billion-pound business were fabricated. Today, households in Europe and the US lonely get through twoscore billion cans of food a year, according to the Tin Manufacturers Institute in Washington DC.
But the road to success was almost batty past a meat scandal in the 19th Century that - with echoes of today's horsemeat crunch - involved a Romanaian meat manufacturing plant and rocked public faith in canned foods.
Standing on the spot of Donkin'due south manufacturing plant today, now a school car park on Southwark Park Route, at that place is little bear witness of the manufacture which, 200 years ago, was almost to spread around the globe.
Obscured past some scaffolding, a small white plaque says the first canned food was produced on this site. Only it fights a losing battle for attention with the sign for Karma Supermarket's low-price beers, spirits and ciders - some sold in four-packs that could be described equally the first cans' modernistic-mean solar day descendants.
Such a depression-primal commemoration reflects how mundane the tin can has become to usa. Backside the door of a kitchen cupboard or lying discarded in the street, literally and metaphorically kicked down the road, information technology exists in the background of our lives.
It's a far cry from the days when its creation occupied the thoughts of some of the leading scientific thinkers in United kingdom of great britain and northern ireland and France.
So committed were these vivid minds to the applied science of food preservation that they gave petty thought to making a device to open up their new invention, and then for decades a hammer and chisel, a bayonet or a rock had to do the task.
The story of the can is 1 of ingenuity and endurance, and one that affects every one of us. It has changed the mode nosotros swallow, the fashion nosotros shop and the way we travel.
Just its pioneers had no such lofty ambitions - they only wanted to fill the stomachs of sailors.
For all the military might available to the British, French and Dutch navies of the late 18th Century, the question of nourishment was on the minds of the warring admirals.
A solution to the conundrum of how to feed thousands of men while far away from a country's food supplies was i vital to national supremacy.
For 300 years, ordinary seamen had been eating salted meat and hardtack (beige), and malnutrition had killed more than one-half of all the British seamen serving in the Vii Years' State of war in the 1750s, says Sue Shephard, writer of Pickled, Potted and Canned.
It meant, she says, the British and French were not only competing at sea and on state in the Napoleonic wars, only also vying to come up up with a phenomenon nutrient. In Paris, a financial incentive was offered.
The phenomenon maker took the unexpected form of a confectioner from Massy, south of Paris.
Nicolas Appert devised the method of heating food in sealed glass jars and bottles placed in humid water. This was effectively sterilisation, decades before Louis Pasteur showed the world how estrus killed bacteria.
Despite the impracticalities - drinking glass was heavy, fragile and liable to explode under internal pressure - Appert has gone down in history as the "father of canning", despite not being the first to utilise tin can plate.
He was awarded 12,000F past the French Ministry of the Interior - thought to be at the personal behest of Napoleon Bonaparte - on condition that he made his discovery public and in 1810 he duly published his findings in The Art of Preserving Animal and Vegetable Substances.
The French public and press were loud in their praises - "Appert has found a mode to gear up the seasons" said ane paper. The French Navy used his method, but it was in England that Appert'due south idea was fully exploited and improved.
Within months, British merchant Peter Durand was granted a patent past Rex George III to preserve food using tinplated cans.
Tin was already used every bit a non-corrosive blanket on steel and fe, especially for household utensils, simply Durand's patent is the start documented prove of nutrient existence heated and sterilised within a sealed can container.
His method was to place the food in the container, seal information technology, identify in cold water and gradually bring to the eddy, open the lid slightly and then seal it again.
In some quarters, he is hailed every bit the "inventor" of the tin tin, but a closer look at the patent, held at the National Archives in London, reveals that information technology was "an invention communicated to him past a certain foreigner residing away".
All-encompassing research by Norman Cowell, a retired lecturer at the department of food science and technology at Reading University, reveals that some other Frenchman hitherto uncredited past history, an inventor called Philippe de Girard, came to London and used Durand as an agent to patent his own idea.
The smoking gun that unmasks Durand can be found in the almost illegible handwritten diary of Sir Charles Blagden, a fellow of the Majestic Gild.
Within these pages, in a large cherry-red volume entitled CB/3/vi in the guild's library, information technology is revealed that Girard had been making regular visits to the Royal Gild to test his canned foods on its members.
And on 28 Jan 1811, Blagden explicitly says it is Durand'south patent in proper noun only.
Girard was forced to come to London because of French red tape, says Cowell, and he couldn't have taken out the patent in England at a time when the two countries were at war.
"The philosophy in England was entrepreneurial, in that location was venture capital. People were prepared to take a risk and go broke. In France if someone had a expert thought they took it to the Academie Francaise and if they thought it was a adept idea they might get a 'pourboire' [tip]."
Durand sold the patent to engineer Bryan Donkin for £one,000 and he disappears from the story, having pocketed a fee and secured an elevated place in history.
Donkin, on the other hand, seemed to have a genuine interest in tin technology, and had already demonstrated a flair for making concepts work commercially.
He patented the first steel pen as an alternative to the quill and invented a device to measure the speed of machines.
Since 1802, at a manufactory site in Bermondsey, he had worked on turning an untested French design for a papermaking machine into a reality, a challenge that had already proved to be beyond other engineers. Within viii years, he had 18 so-called Fourdrinier machines in operation at mills around the country.
In 1811, his papermaking machine business turned in a turn a profit of £2,212 much of which he invested in his new involvement - canning.
He congenital a new manufactory on the same site in Bermondsey, where land was cheap but close to the River Thames docks. It was likewise nigh his dwelling at the time, in Charlotte Place.
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1813
Now
The poor neighbourhood of Sabaa Qusour, where Marwa lives, has sprawled out since 2003.
It took Donkin two years to refine the method set out by Girard for use on a commercial scale.
The venture was partly funded by Sir John, who played little active role in the business. The other partner John Take a chance led the experiments and the running of the factory when the cans rolled off the floor that summer of 1813.
The showtime high-profile plaudit had come from the Duke of Wellington, then Lord Wellesley, who wrote in Apr to say how tasty he had found Donkin'due south canned beef, and recommended it for both the Navy and Army.
Nine days later Wellington decisively crush the French at Vitoria in Spain, Donkin and Gamble presented their beef to the Duke of Kent at Kensington Palace on 30 June.
The duke requested more cans to attempt out on his family and the following twenty-four hour period, Donkin collected the glowing letter of the alphabet from the Counting Business firm in Lombard Street. The knuckles'due south secretarial assistant Jon Parker wrote:
"I am commanded past the Knuckles of Kent to acquaint you that his Royal Highness having procured introduction of some of your patent beef on the Duke of York's table, where it was tasted by the Queen, the Prince Regent and several distinguished personages and highly approved. He wishes yous to furnish him with some of your printed papers in social club that His Majesty and many other individuals may according to their wish expressed take an opportunity of further proving the merits of the things for full general adoption."
Anything simply fulsome praise from the royals might take spelt the finish for Donkin'south experiments. He had plenty of other projects on the get, co-ordinate to his diaries, similar a new counting instrument, a manufactory in Greenwich and a new shoemaking auto devised by Sir Marc Brunel.
His early cans ranged from 4 to 20lb in weight. The oldest survivor can exist plant in the Science Museum in London, measuring 14cm (5.5ins) high and 18cm (7ins) broad, and weighing a hefty vii pounds when filled with veal and taken by Sir William Parry to explore the Northwest Passage.
In 1813, the Admiralty bought 156lb of Donkin'south food, feeding it to sick sailors, because it was mistakenly thought that scurvy was due to over-reliance on salted meat.
The praise from seamen for this unexpected addition to their daily bill of fare was warm and glowing, from every corner of the globe.
William Warner, surgeon of the send Ville de Paris, wrote in 1814 that canned food "forms a most excellent restorative to convalescents, and would ofttimes, on long voyages, salvage the lives of many men who run into consumption [tuberculosis] at body of water for want of nourishment subsequently astute diseases; my opinion, therefore, is that its adoption generally at ocean would exist a most desirable and commendable act".
In Chile, there is a cove named Caleta Donkin, then called because the crew led past Capt Fitzroy were and so delighted with their canned food.
Donkin and Gamble even had a system of quality assurance - each can spent one month of incubation at ninety-110C oestrus before going out.
And each was numbered to aid track its origins. "This is the sort of thing that food factories today strive for," says Cowell.
Perhaps the most gratifying seal of blessing came from Sir Joseph Banks, on behalf of the Majestic Society, who opened a tin of veal two-and-a-half years old and declared it to exist in "a perfect country of preservation".
Banks went on to depict Donkin's work every bit "one of the most important discoveries of the age nosotros live in".
On the back of such praise, concern with the Admiralty took off.
In 1814, the social club was for two,939lb and in 1821 it was 9,000lb. Then other players came on to the market place, clearly infringing the 14-yr patent.
Simply Donkin's company was making money - prices ranged from 8d/lb for carrots to 30d for roast beefiness.
He expanded his client base by wooing polar explorers similar Parry. For them, canned nutrient was hugely benign because the perils of getting stuck in the ice all winter meant they had to haul two or 3 years of food on voyages.
Parry also brought with him preserved cocoa from Fortnum & Mason, purchased using his own personal account, as a treat for his officers and crew. The upmarket London retailer was quick off the marking to get-go a canning business on its Piccadilly premises, offering wealthy Britons - the Empire builders - a "taste of domicile".
Donkin's interest in canning ended in 1821 when he dissolved his partnership with Hall and Gamble. It isn't articulate why, but the impression from his diaries is that canning was more of an engineering science challenge than a passion.
Some of his personal messages reveal a human finding the commercial climate to be tough, equally a debt-ridden nation adjusted to peace after years of fighting.
To his brother in 1817, he says: "What do you lot retrieve will be the cease of these portentous times? From the information I obtained during my recent peregrinations; universal distress seems to pervade the whole community of this land and the manufacturing function in item."
These anxieties did non blunt his enthusiasm. Donkin continued his papermaking machine business organisation and afterward assisted Sir Marc Brunel in tunnelling nether the River Thames. He became a fellow of the Regal Gild and a fellow member of the Royal Astronomical Society.
Noting he had been a magistrate in Surrey in his later years, his obituary from the Purple Society said: "His life was 1 uninterrupted grade of usefulness and good purpose."
Later his expiry in 1855, he was cached in a family plot in Nunhead Cemetery, south London. It's an indication of how much history has overlooked his achievements that on a recent visit, cemetery staff were unaware who he was.
His resting place is overshadowed by the imposing sarcophagus adjacent to him for the shipbuilder John Allan. And even on his own grave, his proper name appears rather as a footnote, below three other relatives named Bryan Donkin and their spouses. There is no mention of his achievements.
Donkin was a fascinating man and a brilliant engineer who has been recognised in his sphere, says John Nutting, editorial manager of The Tin Maker magazine. Just he'south been forgotten by the wider world.
"That catamenia from 1790 to 1880 was a blitz of all sorts of technical achievements and he wasn't in the forefront of what you would see from day to day. He wasn't a guy like Brunel who was involved in ships and trains and all those big infrastructure projects."
Donkin's engineering visitor remained in Bermondsey until 1902, when it moved to Chesterfield. His successor at the captain of the world'due south kickoff tin canning business, John Gamble, moved the factory to Cork in Ireland in 1830, where there was a larger supply of cattle and the shipping route to the US offered an endless supply of custom.
When Gamble exhibited an array of canned foods at the Great Exhibition in 1851, to widespread approval, it must have seemed like the tin tin can's switch from military necessity to household must-take was only a affair of time.
But then came a nutrient scandal that threatened to strike the fledgling manufacture with a fatal accident.
In January 1852, a grouping of meat inspectors gathered at the Royal Clarence Victualling Yard in Portsmouth and proceeded to open 306 cans of meat destined for the Navy.
It was non until they opened the 19th can that they found one fit for human consumption.
Instead of perfectly preserved beef, they constitute putrid meat so rotten that the rock floors needed to be coated with chloride of lime to mask the stench, co-ordinate to an account in the Illustrated London News.
Sometimes the odour was so overpowering the inspectors had to stop and leave the room for fresh air before resuming their grim task.
They fished out pieces of centre, rotting tongues from a dog or sheep, offal, claret, a whole kidney "perfectly putrid", ligaments and tendons and a mass of lurid. Some organs appeared to be from diseased animals.
They condemned 264 cans that day, throwing them into the sea. The remaining 42 cans were given to the poor.
This scene was repeated across the state, as office of a nationwide inspection ordered by the Admiralty. They found meat at Navy depots to exist "garbage and putridity in a horrible land".
A letter to the Times in 1853 revealed that officers of The Plover threw 1,570lb of canned meat overboard in the Bering Straits because "we found information technology in a pulpy, decayed and putrid state, and totally unfit for men's food".
The supplier in question was Stephan Goldner, who had won the Admiralty contract in 1845 by undercutting all rivals, thanks to cheap labour working at his meat manufacturing plant in what is at present Romania.
That contract grew significantly in 1847 when the Admiralty introduced preserved meat as a general ration 1 day a week. The following year complaints began to trickle in from victualling yards in the Uk and from British seamen around the world that other parts of animals were being found in canned meat.
Despite this, Goldner was awarded some other contract in 1850, with a warning that his meat needed to be 18-carat. In order to see the demand, he asked if he could increase the size of the cans, but he didn't cook the meat sufficiently.
In that location are varying reports on how much of Goldner'due south meat was thrown abroad - i said more than 600,000lb to the value of £6,691
A regime select committee was appointed to investigate and questions were asked in the Commons.
There was a danger that this bad publicity might put people off canned food for good, a threat that all the same lingered 10 years later.
Writing in Victorian London in 1865, the dr. and writer Andrew Wynter said: "Information technology does seem suicidal folly on the office of the public to conceive a prejudice against a discovery which is of cracking public importance in a hygienic point of view, and which has been attested and proved."
Goldner was banned from ever supplying the Navy again. It was too revealed that he had supplied the meat to Sir John Franklin's ill-fated expedition that perished in the Arctic in mysterious circumstances in 1847.
Lady Franklin launched five ships in search of her husband, leaving Fortnum cans on the ice in the desperate hope that he would find them. In total more than 50 expeditions joined the search.
Bodies somewhen recovered were found to have a high lead content and to this day, many people believe the 129 coiffure members were poisoned past leaking lead in their poorly soldered can cans.
More contempo inquiry suggests the canned food supplied to Franklin was not acidic plenty for that to happen and the lead was more than likely to accept come up from the internal piping system on the ships.
But the whole Goldner episode was a PR disaster for canned food, says writer Sue Shephard.
"In Europe, United kingdom, Australia and America, people remained nervous of canned food and were reluctant to swallow it. Now many besides believed that it caused food poisoning."
Housewives wanted recognisable cuts of meat, she says, not flavourless, overcooked blocks of meat. Writer Anthony Trollope bought Australian canned meat for his servants and described it as "utterly tasteless".
A campaign got nether manner to promote the nutritional benefits of canned food, with advertisements appearing in the popular press and positive reviews from the Smashing Exhibition in London's Hyde Park.
These messages struck a chord at a fourth dimension when the growing urban populations in Europe and the The states were finding a vocalisation through merchandise unions and branch societies, and demanding better food.
And the first canned nutrient to penetrate the family upkeep came just in fourth dimension to relieve the tin tin can's reputation.
"Condensed milk was the first mass produced object that people bought in shops, in the 1850s," says John Nutting, and it immediately changed the face up of cities considering urban farms gradually disappeared equally people turned from fresh to canned milk.
By 1880, the UK was importing 16 million lb of canned meat, as industries sprang up around the earth, capitalising on the railways, roads and canals that were making the planet more than connected than ever before.
In the US, Thomas Kensett and Ezra Daggett had patented the utilise of tin plate in 1825 and started selling canned oysters, fruits, meats and vegetables in New York. But it was the Civil War decades subsequently that really kickstarted the industry, increasing output six-fold.
Mechanisation of can-making arrived in the 1860s and another major quantum came in 1896 with the inflow of "double seaming" which, according to Gordon Robertson, a food packaging consultant in Queensland, "made information technology possible to develop high-speed equipment for the making, filling and endmost of these cans".
Brands similar Bovril and Heinz capitalised on these and other technological developments that all led to a faster and more efficient ways of canning.
The primeval Heinz baked beans tin was 1895, and then they came to London in 1901
Tinned food - including so-called peachy beef - was introduced every bit an emergency Ground forces ration in the Boer War, with Bovril the principal supplier.
It became a mainstay of the British Army right upwards until the Falklands War in 1982, when the field rations consisted near exclusively of tinned products, plus some sachets.
But iii years afterward pouches, which were lighter and easier to pack, open and prepare, replaced cans.
The new emergency ration of canned beef alleviated the boredom of hardtack biscuits
Simon Naylor, a historical geographer at the University of Exeter, says the can enabled the British to tighten its grip on the Empire and it came to embody majestic force.
The slogan "Empire Ownership Begins At Home" became the hallmark of cans under a new national mark scheme introduced in 1930, he notes.
Canned nutrient did assist to maintain the empire, to an extent, says Philip Dodd of the National Army Museum, because it helped morale to have "British" food in the far-flung outposts.
But while the tin was making strides, the can opener wasn't. And the Fortnum and Stonemason 1849 catalogue included instructions on how to cut tins with a knife.
The commencement can opener was designed in the 1860s, just it didn't become a staple of household drawers until a second serrated cycle was added in 1925. By that time, the US was the biggest producer of canned food.
"Europe and Britain imported vast quantities of United states Pacific canned salmon, and salmon canneries appeared at the oral fissure of well-nigh every river equally far north equally Alaska," says Shephard.
In Iowa, there were vegetable canneries, in Chicago meat, while shrimp was canned in New Orleans, peas in Wisconsin and pineapples in Hawaii. Orange and grapefruit juice led a citrus smash in Florida.
The importance of canned food as a central part of the US food economy was further underlined when in 12 months in 1933-34, ane of President Franklin D Roosevelt's New Deal Programs delivered 692 million pounds of food to needy people in 30 states, much of it canned beef.
American success was mirrored elsewhere on a smaller calibration. South America and Australia had a set up supply of meat only before canning, there was no means to transport it overseas to market.
By the cease of the 19th Century, some of the globe's largest canneries could be found on the coasts of Due south America.
This smash among producers in the Us and elsewhere meant that European households were experiencing some entirely new foods.
The first taste of corned beef was due to U.s.a. imports to the UK, says food historian Liz Calvert Smith, where peaches and tropical fruits were too widely eaten for the start time. And tins gave many people who lived inland the first risk to gustatory modality sardines which, along with pilchards, were affordable.
A can-making machine in activity at the Machinery Exhibition, in west London in 1902
The predominantly female workforce peeling ripe tomatoes at a United states canning factory in 1930
In 1934, the Faversham Mill in Kent was one of the almost up-to-date canning plants in the UK
The Women's Country Regular army canning fruit in Monmouthshire, soon afterwards the start of WWII
Canning peanut oil at Central Hershey, in pre-revolutionary Republic of cuba, 1955
Canning meat for export in the Co-op factory near Belgrade, Yugoslavia, 1964
The tin was an of import part of the shift from agricultural to industrial revolution, says food blogger Sue Davies, allowing food to be harvested in flavour and eaten out of flavor. And agronomics had to answer to this.
After World State of war I, U.s. food production increased dramatically through intensified planting and the introduction of fossil-fuelled traction ability, chemic fertilisers and constructed pesticides.
This was partly an attempt to meet the widespread noncombatant adoption of canned food, says Selcuk Balamir, a PhD boyfriend at the Amsterdam School for Cultural Assay, merely it put power in the hands of behemothic agricultural-industrial companies.
"Previously a military tool of European colonialism, the tin tin can would this fourth dimension become the symbol of capitalism, serving the interests of the American Empire."
The grip on the imagination of consumers was perpetuated by advertising campaigns after World War II that presented canned food as aspirational and convenient.
In a 45-infinitesimal documentary entitled The Miracle of the Tin can, made by the American Canning Company in 1956, the narrator takes the audience through the technological advances of canning, punctuated by pictures of happy children being fed canned food by beaming housewives in sparkling 1950s kitchens.
"So the miracle of the can continues, bringing to countless supporting industries added expansion and prosperity, to millions of people more jobs, ameliorate security and a improve way of life," says the narrator.
It was precisely because the tin can was everywhere, an unnoticed part of everyday modern life, that Warhol made prints of 32 soup cans in 1962.
The epitome became an emblem of the pop fine art movement.
Since this postwar heyday, the threats to the supremacy of the tin tin can take come in many forms.
Pet food is available in pouches, soups and drinks in cartons, while large brands like Heinz sell snackpots and fridgepacks.
New kitchen appliances - refrigerators and freezers in the 1960s, microwaves in the 80s - widened nutrient choice and led to a proliferation of foodstuffs on supermarket shelves.
"The market is being constantly peppered so the number of cans sold has reduced, considering the choices accept become so much greater," says Nick Mullen of the Metal Packaging Manufacturers Association. Merely given this increased contest, sales of cans accept held up well.
Mullen is optimistic about the can's futurity. "Information technology's difficult to supersede tins of fruit, tins of beans, tins of fish or soup. You can get soup out of a carton just information technology'south very expensive and the difference in sense of taste is marginal."
And the two big issues in packaging - food waste product and recycling - work to its reward, he believes.
In that location has been a shift in thinking from "packaging is bad" to "packaging prolongs life and reduces waste", he says, while at the same time the tin can is regarded every bit something that is easily recycled.
Tins have a unique quality, says packaging expert Gordon Robertson, so their ruggedness and impermeability will ensure that they remain an important part of nutrient packaging for a long time.
The image problem bestowed on cans by the mod love affair with fresh food has not dealt it a fatal blow, although stores like Fortnums, once trailblazing in this k experiment, now only stock tinned foie gras.
Canned and frozen food sales rose 11% in the US in 2009, according to Neilsen, which analysts explained past the addiction of consumers to "cocoon" during times of recession, storing up on supplies.
Some countries remain impervious to canned food. In Vietnam, for example, food is by and large bought cheaply at market so most all the cans sold are for drinks.
Merely in Nihon, the risk of earthquakes has people stockpiling cans of food, such as long-life biscuits. And the high price of fresh fruit adds to the appeal of canned fruit.
This global industry is powered by country-of-the-art technology. Factories like the Crown Bevcan plant in Leicester, United kingdom, produce 9 million cans a day, each ane photographed to bank check there are no imperfections. The racket generated by the multi-tentacled robots that swing overhead at loftier speed is deafening.
Canning has come up a long way since Donkin'south fledgling manufactory opened for business in the summer of 1813, with a handful of people each making six cans an 60 minutes.
The Harris Academy school pupils who every 24-hour interval walk across the footing upon which this industry was born will soon exist reminded of its significance. Head Dawn Rumley is planning a special assembly to mark the anniversary.
"It is exciting to think as we learn each twenty-four hour period that this slice of world history existed right below our feet," she says. "And to run across the tin tin feature so prominently in our everyday lives 200 years later."
Whether the canned food manufacture is in such health come its 300th birthday in the year 2113 remains to be seen.
Merely the tins yous take today in your closet will exist.
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Source: https://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-21689069
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